
Book #85 of 2019:
Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly by Anthony Bourdain
I’ve never been especially familiar with celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain, but I was struck by all the fans who tearfully praised his warm, empathetic approach to food culture after his suicide in 2018. I heard over and over again that he was kind and curious and generally just loved learning about local recipes around the world and bringing people together over a meal.
So it’s somewhat jarring to move from that mental image to the rougher Bourdain of this book that first made him famous two decades ago. He’s exceedingly crass in these pages, which is not a problem for me as a reader, but he’s also callous and arrogant, which is. He compares vegans to Hezbollah, he disparages women for their weight, and he’s rather cavalier about acts of groping and verbal abuse he’s witnessed in his kitchens.
On its merits this is a solid memoir of the restaurant industry, and Bourdain does a great job at conveying the controlled chaos that customers rarely get to see. But his personality overwhelms the rest of the narrative, and I’m honestly having a hard time reconciling this self-proclaimed asshole (always a red flag!) with the loving teddy bear that people have eulogized.
★★★☆☆








