
TV #16 of 2025:
The Bear, season 3
In an odd way, The Bear the TV series seems to be following the same arc as The Bear the titular gentrified restaurant, growing increasingly artsy and experimental as it goes along. How else to account for the first episode of this latest season, which is basically one long stream-of-consciousness montage with barely any dialogue? Much like the pretentious fine dining that it depicts, it’s a product that is simultaneously impressively constructed and, for me at least, somewhat unappetizing to actually consume. I don’t think I’d like to eat at an establishment like The Bear in person. I certainly don’t want to watch shows that are so avant-garde on my television.
Sometimes, the more exploratory approach pays off. Two of the ten installments this year are excellent — “Napkins” about Tina’s professional backstory and “Ice Chips” about Natalie’s experience in the hospital with her mother — and although neither is quite on the level of last season‘s epic family showdown “Fishes,” they gain a similar power by digging into the central characters so deeply. Too often, however, we have protagonists who are stuck in the holding pattern of a toxic work environment, amid an episodic structure that regularly denies us any sense of conventional plot rhythm or satisfying resolution. The finale even turns the program over to almost a dozen real-life celebrity chefs for extended cameos, while giving its nominal hero Carmy no significant scenes with either Richie or Sydney, whose interpersonal conflicts are instead left simmering.
Also, it must be said: way too many Faks. Their affable quirks can be hilarious in small doses, but the balance is off here and John Cena is staggeringly miscast as yet another member of that clan. Less of them all going forward, please.
★★★☆☆
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